Happy Halloween! Did you dress up over the weekend or bail on all the parties and binge on the candy that’s supposed to be saved for tonight’s trick-or-treaters? (#guilty) I’m heading out on an early morning flight to LA today for an exciting project at work. More to come this holiday season! It’s a good one!
ICYMI, yesterday I kicked off our Italy Travel Diary with days 1-3, which we spent in Sicily. I didn’t want to overwhelm you and make a single post way too long to read over a cup of coffee. So, I’m back today with another deep dive into the next leg of our journey — Positano & Capri. And tomorrow will be the third post of the week, all about Rome!
Days 4-7: Amalfi Coast
I can easily say Positano was my favorite part of the trip and it’s somewhere I hope to go back to many times in my life. I’d seen so many photos of the Amalfi Coast before we arrived, so I figured I wouldn’t be surprised or in awe. I was wrong. It is a magical little town tucked away along a beautiful coastline. I was most surprised by the scale of the mountains it was nestled in — I knew it was cut into a cliff but I didn’t appreciate that the cliffs are part of pretty expansive set of mountains. Many people suggested we hike along the Path of the Gods from Amalfi to Positano so you see it from above – we didn’t have time but it’s on my list for next time!
In order to get to Positano, we flew from Catania, Sicily (more about that leg of our journey here) to Naples. From Naples, we booked this car service with Enzo and the drive took about 90 minutes from the airport. We debated the car service because at 130 EUR, it was one of our biggest expenses of the trip. The ease, combined with an amazing experience coming back to Naples (more on that tomorrow) was totally worth it, though.
The great part about our time in Positano was how spontaneous it was. I didn’t really research too much or make a list of things to see, places to eat. In fact, a lot of our last minute choices were guided by seeing Carly and Ana visit just days before us plus chatting with other couples along the way. A few of our favorite spots were:
- Franco’s Bar, a must for sunset! We happened to arrive around 5:15 and grabbed one of the last tables. Order drinks or a bottle of wine and a few snacks will arrive with them.
- Le Sirenuse, one of the top hotels in the area. We considered splurging on dinner there but opted for lunch at the Pool Bar, which was quiet, fancy and delicious. Definitely still a splurge though! The views & the lemon trees on the pool deck are perfection.
- El Capitano, while we didn’t eat here, several people recommended it and we saw the views from their deck, which were impressive.
- Limoncello spritzes and snacks at Buca di Bapo, our favorite waterfront bar anytime of day! We also had dinner on their rooftop on our last night, which was lovely. As a side note, a limoncello spritz is a great alternate if you or your significant other are not Aperol fans.
- Pizza at Lo Guarracino, which is along the walkway between the main beach and our hotel. An open air restaurant with a pizza oven carved into the cliff.
One of the most memorable nights happened spontaneously when we asked our hotel concierge about wanting to see a great sunset. She suggested we go to the next town down the coast, Praiano, via public bus, for a rooftop dinner at Hotel Le Fioriere. I didn’t even have Praiano on my radar and certainly don’t think I would’ve been brave enough to take the bus if she hadn’t suggested it. But it turned out to be a magical evening with a fabulous waiter, fresh tuna steak and the yummiest cheese sampler. Though we didn’t explore the town too much after dinner (seeing as we had to make the last public bus back to Positano), the evening gave me just enough of a taste to want to go back!
We lucked out with beautiful weather throughout the trip, but especially for our boat trip to Capri. Our all-day tour was through Lucibello with about 16-20 people. I would’ve liked to go on an even smaller excursion (this company came highly recommended) but we were pre-booked with the hotel and couldn’t switch.
The boat took us along the coast and our guide pointed out a lot of highlights you can’t see from land. It then took us to the major highlights around the island of Capri including the Green Grotto and il Faraglioni (one of which looks like King Kong, no?). There was a two-hour wait for the Blue Grotto so we opted to hop off the boat and explore the island.
Again, I didn’t do much research about Capri in advance. Whereas in Positano, this was a great luxury, it made things tricky in Capri since we had a finite amount of time. I would’ve liked to go to the chair lift but was unsure about time to get to/from Ana Capri. Instead we hiked up and over the main part of town (which might actually be steeper than Positano) and attempted to eat lunch at Da Luigi. The fact that it was closed for the season was disheartening but the views were still fantastic on that side of the island.
We spent the afternoon indulging in mussels, pasta, and more Aperol spritzes. I recommend an afternoon snack & spritz at Da Gemma, which is at the end of the main port area. It’s a nice spot to people watch and enjoy the sea breeze. We walked along the beach and gawked at all the fancy shops before heading back to our boat with Peronis in hand.
Where We Stayed: Hotel Pupetto
Towns Visited: Positano, Praiano, Capri
On My Next Visit: I know I will be back to Positano! I will make that declarative of a statement if only to hold myself to it. On our car ride back to Naples, I literally mapped out our next itinerary (1 day beach lounging in Positano, 1 day hike the Path of the Gods, 1 day trip to Ravello, 1 day in Sorrento and 1 day trip to the island of Ischia).